Seattle is defined by water. There's no use denying the city's damp weather, or the fact that its skies are cloudy for much of the year. Seattleites don't tan, goes the joke, they rust. But Seattle is also defined by the rivers, lakes, and canals that bisect its steep green hills, creating a series of distinctive areas along the water's edge. Funky fishing boats, floating homes, swank yacht clubs, and waterfront restaurants exist side by side.

A city is defined by its people as well as by its geography, and the people of Seattle -- a half million within the city proper, another 3 million in the surrounding Puget Sound region -- are a diversified bunch. Seattle has long had a vibrant Asian and Asian-American population, and well-established communities of Scandinavians, African-Americans, Jews, Native Americans, and Latinos live here, too. It's impossible to generalize about such a varied group, but the prototypical Seattleite was once pithily summed up by a New Yorker cartoon in which one arch-eyebrowed East Coast matron says to another, "They're backpacky, but nice."

Seattle's climate fosters an easygoing indoor lifestyle. Overcast days and long winter nights have made the city a haven for moviegoers and book readers. Hollywood often tests new films here, and residents' per-capita book purchases are among North America's highest. Seattle has all the trappings of a metropolitan hub -- two daily newspapers, a state-of-the-art convention center, professional sports teams, a diverse music-club scene, and top-notch ballet, opera, symphony, and theater companies. A major seaport, the city is a vital link in Pacific Rim trade.

Expansion has led to the usual big-city problems -- increases in crime, drug abuse, homelessness, poverty, and traffic congestion, along with a decline in the quality of the public schools. Many residents have fled to the nearby suburb of Bellevue, which has swollen from a quiet farming community to become Washington's fifth-largest city. But despite the growing pains they've endured, Seattleites have a great love for their city and a firm commitment to maintaining its reputation as one of the most livable areas in the country.

Seattle draws visitors with its blend of urban sophistication, easygoing charm, and access to spectacular outdoor recreation. A major cultural center, its sophistication is evident in its architecture, fashion, and arts. Its restaurants -- from tiny International District dumpling stands to posh, first-class dining rooms -- serve a steady supply of visitors, longtime residents, and newcomers, all caught in the act of discovering and celebrating the city. Surrounding Seattle are the glorious mountains of the Olympic and Cascades ranges and the seafood-rich waters of the Pacific Ocean.